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The cone of Pusuk Buhit rising above Lake Toba, seen from the road to Tele

Pusuk Buhit, Tele & Lake Sidihoni

The sacred mountain of the Batak and the view from the rim

Pusuk Buhit, a volcanic cone of almost two thousand metres on the western shore, is the holiest place in the Batak world. According to tradition, the first ancestor, Si Raja Batak, came down to earth here, and all Batak clans trace their descent from the village at its foot, Sianjur Mula-mula. Families still come to pray, and sacred stones and springs dot the lower slopes.

For visitors the mountain is mostly something to look at — and the best place to do that is the Tele viewing tower on the caldera rim, where the road from Berastagi and Sidikalang begins its long descent to the lake. Completing the western circuit, Lake Sidihoni lies up on Samosir’s plateau: a small lake on an island in a lake.

Top things to do at Pusuk Buhit, Tele & Lake Sidihoni

Take in the view from Tele

The tower stands at a bend high above the lake, with tiers of viewing platforms looking down on Pangururan, the strait and the green cone of Pusuk Buhit. Clear mornings are best; by early afternoon cloud often rolls up the slope.

Visit Sianjur Mula-mula

In the valley behind Pusuk Buhit, a reconstructed traditional compound and several sacred sites commemorate the origin of the Batak people. It is quiet, rural and little visited by foreigners; a local guide helps a great deal with the stories.

Hike Pusuk Buhit

The climb to the summit takes most of a day there and back and should be done with a local guide, both for route-finding and out of respect for a mountain many people consider sacred. Ask in Pangururan or through your guesthouse.

Detour to Lake Sidihoni

On the plateau road between Pangururan and the east coast, Sidihoni is a calm sheet of water among pasture and pine trees where buffalo graze on the shore. There are no facilities to speak of — that is the point.

Morning haze over the slopes above Lake Toba, seen from the Tele viewing towerLake Sidihoni surrounded by grassland on the plateau of Samosir

How to get to Pusuk Buhit, Tele & Lake Sidihoni

  • Tele: about 45 minutes by road up from the bridge at Pangururan. Buses between Pangururan and Medan pass the tower.
  • Sianjur Mula-mula: a side road from the mainland end of the bridge, past the hot springs, reaches the valley in around half an hour.
  • Lake Sidihoni: roughly twenty minutes uphill from Pangururan on the cross-island road.
  • On a tour: one three-day cultural tour on GetYourGuide is built around Sianjur Mula-mula and ulos weaving.

Insider tips

  • The road to Tele is steep with many hairpins and occasional landslips after heavy rain. Ride it only if you are an experienced scooter rider; otherwise hire a car and driver.
  • It is noticeably colder on the rim than at the lake. Take a jacket.
  • At sacred sites, follow your guide’s lead, dress modestly and ask before photographing people praying.
  • There is a small charge to climb the tower.

Best tours & tickets for Pusuk Buhit, Tele & Lake Sidihoni

These experiences are the easiest way to see Pusuk Buhit, Tele & Lake Sidihoni:

Live availability: tours around Pusuk Buhit, Tele & Lake Sidihoni

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Good to know

Pusuk Buhit, Tele & Lake Sidihoni FAQs

Frequently asked questions

Why is Pusuk Buhit sacred?

Batak tradition holds that the first ancestor, Si Raja Batak, descended to earth on the mountain, making it the point of origin for every Batak clan.

Can I climb Pusuk Buhit without a guide?

We do not recommend it. Paths are unmarked, weather changes quickly and the mountain has religious significance. A local guide is inexpensive and adds much to the day.

What is special about Lake Sidihoni?

Its position: it lies on Samosir, which is itself in Lake Toba, which is on the island of Sumatra — a lake on an island in a lake on an island.